KB Bag Design Academy

1. How to cut neat straight edges: practice, mistakes, troubleshooting

2. The difference in cutting heavy, slouchy, and lightweight leather

3. Cutting thick belt leather nice and easy

1. Cutting the fringe body

2. Turning the fringe into the tassel with a lobster clasp on top

3. Setting up a Sailrite flatbed machine

4. Needles, thread, and leather thickness

5. Practice straight even stitching with dense fabric

6. Practice stitching with leather

7. Checking before you start your project

1. PDF pattern and cutting/gluing it

2. Cutting leather details

3.1 Closing the zipper's ends with leather patches with some tricks

3.2 Two ways to stitch the zipper's ends

4.1 Gluing the front & back leather details to the zipper

4.2. Game changing trick: covering zipper's tape with leather strips on the inside

5.1 Stitching the zipper

5.2 Trick with the zip closure on the inner side

6.1 Stitching the sides and bottom (a side version without D-ring added)

6.2 Optional D-ring attachment: making the attachment ready

6.3 Optional D-ring attachment: Stitching the side and hiding the threads

7.1 Depth's tricks for perfectly straight crossing and stitching the 1st side

7.2 Stitching the 2nd depth side

8.1 Making the knots on the bottom

8.2 Making the knots on the top and your pouch is ready!

Things to check before creating a straight bag pattern (tote, crossbody, or hobo)

Approach 1: Constructing 1–2–3 piece straight boxy shapes: tote, crossbody, hobo of any size you want

Practice 1.1: Building a real-size tote pattern of 10"W x 11.5"H x 4.5"D

Practice 2.1: building a tote pattern based on the existing bag 13.8"H x12.2"W x11.4"D (35x31x29cm)

Practice 2.2: Converting a standard 2-piece tote pattern into one with a designated bottom

Practice 2.3: Build a classic straight pouch/clutch pattern with me, the size is 7Lx5Hx2.5D"(17.5x12.5x6.25cm)

Practice 2.4: Constructing the pattern for a leather bag with a one-piece bottom and a canvas top featuring large front pockets, measuring 12"Wx13"Hx4"D (30x32.5x10cm)

From straight body to angled shape: How to narrow down the top while keeping the wide bottom

Practice from Straight to Angled: How to convert the straight pattern into an angled design and designate the bottom in a separate piece

From straight top to curved top

Separating the bottom and how the assembly order changes

Separating patterns for pockets or accent details

Adding seam allowance correctly

Resizing patterns

Prototyping

Extending straps and converting straight/angled shapes into a hobo bag

Body construction: inside stitching, outside stitching, overlapping sides

Assembly order for different types of separated bottoms

Assembly order for top closures: top zipper, recessed zipper, rolled edge (with or without zipper)

Assembly order for stitched-in or riveted straps and strap attachments (tote, hobo, crossbody)

Intro. What zipper to choose: size, and metal or plastic

3 types to make the opening for zip closure

Zippers Straight Gluing (No Waves or Curves)

Zip closure for raw edge leather and waxed canvas

Zip closure for Pendleton wool/upholstery fabric/jacquard/etc

Zip closure for leather with folded edge - perfect for thin leathers

Cutting belt leather strap

Double-layered & stitched straps 1: picking the leather right for both layers

Double-layered & stitched straps 2: gluing and cutting

Double-layered & stitched straps 3: stitching the straps

Cutting the strips for zip pullers and key holder

The loop zip puller for the top zip closure

The "tongue" zip puller for the outside zip pocket on the back

Key holder and small loop for the inside zip pocket

Setting the rivets of the pullers

PDF pattern to download: Angled Pouch 9.5x 5.2" Height x3.5 with a designated bottom

PDF pattern to download: Angled Pouch 9.5x 6" Height x3.5 with a designated bottom

PDF pattern to download: Angled Pouch 9.5x 7" Height x3.5 with a designated bottom

1. Getting the printed pattern ready: gluing and cutting

2.1 Cutting the details: waxed canvas back side

2.1 Cutting the details: Pendleton wool front side

2.3 Cutting the details: leather bottom

2.4 Cutting the details: lining

3.1 Zip closure: Getting the zipper ready

3.2 Zip closure: waxed canvas side

3.3 Zip closure: Pendleton wool side

4. Pockets placement before making the bottom

4.1 Making the bottom: gluing and reinforcing

4.2 Making the bottom: stitching

5.1 Stitching the sides: the first one

6. Stitching the depth

7. Stitching the the bottom and depth of the lining

8. Trick with the top and turning the bag out

9. Side strap attachments

10. Zip puller and closing the zipper end

11. Attaching the shoulder strap

12. Adding a key holder

13. Setting the rivets

14. Closing the gap in the lining

Chill week - Catching up on the previous projects and getting leather for next projects

Pattern making for moon / crescent shapes

Camera bags (rectangular & round)

Backpacks

Adding a flap to any shape

Cambridge messenger bag

Travel duffle with pockets

Boston-style duffle

Oval and round bottom bags

Fanny packs

PDF pattern 10W"x11.5H"x4.5D" and cutting/gluing it

Tote handles frames PDF pattern

Marking holes for the tote handles

Outside slide pocket 1: 3 ways of placement the pocket on the bag's body + gluing + reinforcing

Outside slide pocket: 2. Stitching

Outside slide pocket: 3. Reinforcing the pocket's top with threads

How we can change the shape depending on the kind of bottom stitching

Stitching the sides

Stitching the depth right to have neat crossing and corners

Hiding the thread end on the bottom

Hiding the thread end on top

Making the nice symmetrical holes for the handles + reinforcing with leather patches

Setting the rivets with the press

Congratulations on your first leather tote made!

1. PDF Pattern, printing settings and gluing the pattern

2. Cutting leather details

3. Cutting front slide pocket

4. Cutting lining

PDF pattern 12"Wx13"Hx4"D

1.1. Cutting the details: canvas top/pockets/closure

1.2. Cutting the details: leather

1.3. Cutting the details: Lining

2.1. Preparing the waxed canvas top: main details

2.2. Preparing the top: pockets

3. Stitching the pockets

4. Top closure: watch it before making this type of closure

4.1. Top closure: Preparing the canvas strips

4.2. Top closure: Cutting lining and sealing the zipper

4.3. Top closure: Making the 1st strip

4.4. Top closure: Making the 2nd strip

4.5. Top closure: Closing the short sides

How we would adjust this top closure for leather

5.1. Attaching the front detail to the zip closure & general preps

5.2. Attaching the back detail to zip closure

6. Making the handles holes and where to place the pockets

7. Attaching the leather bottom: to place it over the canvas top or under.mov

7.1. The first "bottom" stitching on the front

7.2. The 2nd "upper" stitching on the front

7.3. The first "bottom" stitching on the back

7.4. the 2nd "upper" stitching on the back

7.5. Uneven stitching troubleshooting

8.1 Bottom: reinforcing materials, size & cutting the detail

8.2. Bottom: gluing the reinforcement and how to secure it to the bottom with stitches/rivets

8.3. Bottom: stitching

8.4. Bottom stitching: troubleshooting

9.1. Sides: clipping

9.2. Sides: stitching

9.3. Sides are ready! Let's check them before closing the depth

PDF pattern: tote straps frames, side strap attachments, backpack top & bottom attachments

10.1 Bottom: to keep it as a tote and how to turn it into a backpack (+cutting the bottom attachments)

10.2 Bottom: backpack attachments centering, clipping, and reinforcing

10.3. Bottom: Stitching

11.1. Straps: Cutting tote handles and side strap attachments

11.2. Straps: Hiding the threads and burnishing

11.3. Tote handles & side attachments for the long strap: reinforcing the body first

11.4. Attaching the tote handles

11.5. Two options to turn a bag to a backpack: strap between the tote handles

12. Attaching top side attachments for the long strap

13. Adding the depth to the lining and closing the bottom

Practice 2.6: Constructing the pattern for a leather bag with a one-piece bottom and a canvas top featuring large front pockets, measuring 12"Wx13"Hx4"D (30x32.5x10cm)

Transforming the existing smaller 2-piece bag pattern Tote N1 into a 3-piece bag

Hobo/Crossbody with a wide stitched-in strap, overlapped body stitching, a separate bottom, rolled top, lined - Feb 5

A project of your own design, with my guidance on pattern adjustments and assembly order - Feb 12

My place to buy rivets with the long base

The PDF pattern and the pattern gluing

Tracing the leather details

Cutting the leather details

Cutting the lining details

Front pockets 1: Gluing the top leather detail to the fabric

Front pockets 2. Now let's stitch the top

Front pockets 3. Placing the 2nd "pockets" part to the front and making marks

Front pockets 4. Double stitching

Front pockets 5. Dome rivet

Zip closure 1. Zipper - Cutting, gluing, + tricks for straight lines

Zip closure 2. Back side - gluing the lining and stitching

Zip closure 3. Front side - gluing the lining and stitching

Placement of the inside pockets and gluing leather details

Making the bottom folds on the front side

Making the bottom folds on the back and how to change the shape by moving the folds

Stitching the leather details way 1: with the clips and no glue

Stitching the leather details way 2: with the glue and clips

What to do if a home sewing machine didn't go through bottom folds

Stitching the lining

Work with the top and reinforcing the sides for the strap attachments

Closing the lining

Cutting the long strap

Cutting the strap attachments

Cutting the strips for zip pullers and key holder

Burnishing the straps

Sealing the top sides for the strap's attachments

Attaching the strap attachments

Attaching the strap with a strap stopper

The loop zip puller for the top zip closure

The "tongue" zip puller for the outside zip pocket on the back

Key holder and small loop for the inside zip pocket

Setting the rivets of the pullers

Congrats on finishing your Borla bag!!

Instagram profile that sells

What makes your bag to look homemade and how to get rid of that